Tenderloin - The amorphous disc with crackled edges served in the traditional manner (in a red plastic basket lined with waxed paper) dwarfs its soft Kaiser bun at the basketball-themed bar owned by Jonathan Plump, the most famous member of the 1950s Milan High School basketball team on which the movie Hoosiers was based. More crunch than meat, the sandwich gets its texture from an aggressively crisp mahogany batter spiced with black pepper and heavily applied. On a nice day, take one of the open-air tables on the bar's pet-friendly patio. ($8)

• Handicapped accessible