If there's a starter tenderloin for visitors to the Hoosier state, this thin, crispy tenderloin that extends modestly beyond the bun would have to be the leading candidate, especially in a basket with giant batter-dipped onion rings. But the locals love this archetypal version of their state sandwich, for its flavor and its classic drive-in environs, dating from 1948 and renamed in 1960. A frosty mug of homemade root beer with all the flavor complexity of a barrel-aged bourbon is a must. ($3.60)
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