Pond or Lake Management
- General Management of small fish ponds.
- "Managing Aquatic Plants in Indiana Lakes"
- Companies that provide aquatic plant and pond management services.
- Pond fish and grass carp vendors
- DNR Conservation Officers
- District Fisheries Biologists
See the following publications from Purdue University
- Aquatic Plant Management (Updated)
- Barley Straw for Algae Control
- Control of Duckweed and Watermeal
- Why Aquatic Herbicides Affect Aquatic Plants and Not You!
Questions
- What can I do to clear up my muddy farm pond?
- What resources are available on aquaculture (fish farming) in Indiana?
- Where can I get fish to stock my private pond?
- Why are there restrictions on sale and use of carp?
- Where can I get mosquitofish to stock in a private pond or subdivision detention basin?
- Should pond owners feed their fish a commercial diet?
- I still want to feed my fish. How should I do it?
- What pond management techniques are recommended for growing big bluegills in a pond?
- What is a fish attractor and how do I construct one?
- What can I do to avoid seasonal fish kills in my pond?
- Who can purchase and use rotenone to remove fish from private ponds?
- If I suspect a disease in my fish, where should I take them to be checked?
- What can I do if I think my pond was contaminated by pesticides or other chemicals?
- Who can I contact for information on removing nuisance animals from my pond?
- How can I control leeches and “swimmer’s itch” in my pond?
- How should I manage the plants in my pond or lake?
- What can I use to control weeds growing on the land around the edge of my pond?
- Can insects be stocked in lakes to control Eurasian watermilfoil?
- Who can help me with pond or wetland construction questions?
- My pond leaks. What can I do to seal it?
- Is dam removal a viable alternative to the high costs of maintenance and repair?
What can I do to clear up my muddy farm pond?
Trying to raise a fish crop in muddy water is a lot like trying to raise a garden under your front porch. Without sunlight, microscopic plant growth ceases, disrupting the base of the food web. Fish that feed by sight can’t catch their food. Fish stunt or fail to reproduce and grow. Bass grow up to five times faster in clear water. Extremely clear water does not produce fish either. A balanced pond you will be able to see the bottom in about 18 inches of water. Muddy water can be due either (1) to animals or shoreline erosion stirring it up or (2) to clay suspension caused by water chemistry. To determine which might be the problem, take a sample of water in a clean gallon jar and write the date on the jar. Set the jar on the shelf and observe how fast the mud settles.
If it clears in a week or less, the cause is probably stirring caused by crayfish, burrowing insects, carp, channel catfish, bullheads, muskrats or soil erosion from bare shorelines or wave action. Muddiness caused by catfish or carp may only be seasonal during spawning. Numerous bottom feeders tend to keep a pond muddy. If muddy water is caused by carp or bullheads, complete pond draining and chemical eradication of all fish may be necessary, followed by restocking and protecting the inlet and outlet so problem fish cannot re-enter the pond. If muddiness is chronic, even after attempting to solve it, the pond will still support channel catfish and fathead minnowsfish that do not feed by sight.
Muddiness caused by crayfish can be reduced by maintaining more bass. If handfuls of mud from the bottom reveals several brownish inch-long insects in the sediments, the pond may have too many burrowing mayflies. You may also see numerous pencil-size or small holes in the surface of undisturbed mud. Control of mayflies may be accomplished by stocking 300 to 400 2-inch bluegill per acre of water. Mayflies hatch and leave the pond in late summer and fall.
Alum, or agricultural gypsum, is most effective in a situation where pollution of a pond by sediment or nutrients is no longer occurring but nutrients from a past pollution continues to circulate in the pond. The alum salts precipitate phosphorus out of the water column and lock it in the sediments. Although alum has been used in larger lakes, the practice can be expensive. Continuing sources of nutrients may negate the benefits of the alum treatment. Alum is usually spread across the pond by casting from a boat. The amount used depends on the size and depth of the pond. For instance, a one-quarter acre pond that is two feet deep would be treated with 250 pounds of gypsum. A one acre pond that is five feet deep would require 2,600 pounds. The dosage and risks are related to water hardness. In water that is not well-buffered, low pH caused by the aluminum can cause a fish kill. This condition is less common in Indiana waters due to buffering by limestone, but signs of fish stress should be monitored during the application. The pond should clear within 1-4 weeks following treatment. A reapplication of 1/4 of the original amount of may be necessary. Smaller amounts can be applied annually to keep it clear.
Muddy water caused by suspended clay particles can sometimes be corrected by spreading broken bales of high quality hay or barley straw in the water around the shoreline. Acids formed during plant decay can cause clay particles to settle. Approximately two bales of hay per surface acre should clear the water. Do not use too many bales and do not use uncured or fresh cut vegetation. Either mistake may cause a fish kill. To determine if this method may work, add twotablespoons of vinegar to your water sample. If it clears overnight, use of bales will probably work.
To prevent similar problems in the future, pond owners should also control erosion along the shoreline with stone or vegetation (cattails and lilies) and keep a well vegetated buffer on upland areas between the pond and any farm or urban drainage. Livestock can trample shorelines and should not be allowed in fish ponds. Landowners can call the county Soil and Water Conservation District (SWCD) for suggestions on plant varieties that would work best as a drainage filter. The SWCD might also be able to help neighbors use better soil and nutrient conservation practices, although large rain events can overwhelm any buffer system.
Based on: Missouri Pond Handbook by Ken Perry.
What resources are available on aquaculture (fish farming) in Indiana?
There are several sources of information on aquaculture production in Indiana. The Indiana Illinois Sea Grant Aquaculture Extension Program and the Indiana Aquaculture Association provide the best information for persons interested in aquaculture in Indiana. The aquaculture extension specialist at the Aquaculture Extension Office at Purdue University in West Lafayette, Indiana, can be reached at tel. 765-494-6264. The Indiana Aquaculture Plan aquaculture information for surrounding states and useful links to other aquaculture information sites is also available on the web.
Development of small business, including aquaculture, is served by several agencies. For assistance in production and management, the Indiana Aquaculture Briefing book can be obtained from the Office of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 150 W. Market St., Suite 414, Indianapolis, IN 46204 or by calling Julia Wickard, Natural Resources Director, at 317-232-8778. In regard to financial issues of business development, the regional office of the Indiana Small Business Development Center can be reached at 317-261-3030.
Where can I get fish to stock my private pond?
It is legal to stock grass carp in private ponds, but the fish must be genetically altered (triploid) so that they cannot spawn. This is so that any fish accidentally released to Indiana waters cannot reproduce and will ensure that your pond will not be overrun by carp. Carp can be very effective in removing plants from ponds. However, they also have a tendency to eat beneficial plants before unwanted algae, and root in the bottom, especially during the spawning season (most of the summer). This can tear out beneficial aquatic plants and muddy the water, negatively affecting other fish in your pond. A good stand of plants in the water is extremely important for supporting habitat, food, and oxygen for fish in the pond. If you would like to use carp in a private pond, be sure that the number of carp matches the size of the pond. Do not overstock. Fish for stocking in private ponds or lakes are no longer available from federal or state hatcheries.
Why are there restrictions on sale and use of carp?
There are a number of species of fish called “carp” that belong to different groups and have very different effects on other fish and aquatic systems. It is illegal to sell or stock any fish, including carp, without a permit. Sellers of carp must have a current Aquaculture Permit from the IDNR, must deliver the fish to your pond themselves (you cannot purchase them and take them home), and must provide quarterly reports to the state of the location of all carp stocked in public or private waters. Carp and goldfish are native to Asia, and each has the potential for disrupting the environment. These fish are generally tolerant to pollution. Goldfish or Crucian carp (Carassius auratus) are sporadically found in Indiana waters. Common carp (Cyprinus carpio) may also be known as mirror carp (having few, enlarged scales), leather carp (without scales) or koi (colored varieties). Carp and goldfish were first raised in ponds in the United States in the late 1800s. Common carp provide fishing opportunities, but also can negatively affect native fish by rooting in the mud and decreasing water clarity. Grass carp (Ctenopharyngodon idella) were first used in ponds in Arkansas in the 1960s. These fish eat rooted plants in water and may be stocked in private ponds to control plant growth. However, grass carp can also destroy fish and wildlife habitat by removing desirable aquatic plants. Bighead, black and silver carp are not prevalent in the United States. They can cause severe problems for fish communities and are generally not allowed for use in Indiana. These fish could escape from farm ponds into rivers, threatening some species of snails and mollusks with extinction. Stocked carp are genetically modified to have three sets of chromosomes rather than two, so they are less likely to reproduce and overrun an area. Once fish are introduced into a waterway, it is difficult to completely remove or control them. Therefore, the permitting system provides a means of making cautious decisions on where, when and how many fish to stock. You can obtain a complementary list of licensed fish suppliers by calling the DNR at tel. 317-232-4080 or on the web at: [aquatic services list.wpd].
Where can I get mosquitofish to stock in a private pond or subdivision detention basin?
Mosquitofish (genus Gambusia) can provide biological control of mosquitos and are legal to stock only in private ponds that are isolated from other waterways. They are available free from the Marion County Health Department to residents of the county wishing to stock ornamental ponds or other isolated water bodies. To inquire about mosquitofish, contact the Marion County Health Department at tel. 317-221-7440. Residents in other areas should contact their local health departments. Fish for stocking in private ponds or lakes are no longer available from federal or state hatcheries. You can obtain a complementary list of licensed fish suppliers by calling the DNR at tel. 317-232-4080.
Should pond owners feed their fish a commercial diet?
Should I feed my fish? The fisheries section recommends not feeding fish if you are managing bluegill and bass. Feeding is enjoyable and entertaining, but not we do not recommend supplemental feeding as a means of growing big bluegills, the objective of many pond owners. The main reasons for not feeding a commercial diet to bluegill and bass include:
- The natural fertility of most ponds is sufficient for producing an annual crop of desirable-size fish. Ponds have produced big bluegills where supplemental feeding is never practiced. Fish populations of 38 Midwestern ponds, ranging in size from 0.4 to 4.1 acres, were studied in 1973 and 1974. The pounds of bluegill per acre ranged from 17 to 614 and averaged 188. The number of bluegill per acre ranged from 716 to 31,146 and averaged 10,511. This information clearly shows that there are many mouths to feed!
- Fisheries research has not shown supplemental feeding substantially increases the number of bluegill in ponds. Supplemental feeding of bluegill in six-acre McFarland Lake (Iowa) was not beneficial to the recruitment of bluegill into the fishery. Producing a pond full of “slab” bluegill is important in many states, including Alabama, Kentucky, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, and Nebraska. However, supplemental feeding is not a recommended bluegill management technique in these states.
- Feeding takes time! More time than most pond owners are willing to commit. Fish learn to feed on commercial pellets, and for optimum learning, feed should be offered every day, in the same places and at the same time of day. Feeding “just when you feel like it” is a waste of both time and money.
- Feed that is not consumed and falls to the pond bottom where it decomposes can result in oxygen depletion and high ammonia levels. Fish grow best when dissolved oxygen levels are high and ammonia levels low.
- Supplemental feeding costs. Once feeding has begun, it cannot be stopped without starving the fish.
I still want to feed my fish. How should I do it?
If you have not been talked out of feeding the fish and you are determined to commit to the project, we suggest the following:
- Feed 3-6 pounds per acre of high protein fish feed per day. Do not overfeed!
- Feed should contain 32-36 percent protein.
- Feed around the entire shoreline, if possible, so many fish have an opportunity to feed.
- Feed 1/8 inch pellets as 4-5 inch bluegill can easily consume this size feed.
- On-site adjustments in the pounds of feed being fed can be made by watching the fish “clean it up.” Minimal waste occurs with hand feeding.
- Feed only when the surface water temperature is 65 degrees or higher (May-October).
- Feed a floating pellet for the first few weeks so the fish can be observed. Once the fish learn to accept a commercial feed, gradually switch to sinking pellets, as they are less expensive but equally nutritious.
- Fish feed best when the feed is fresh. Feed should be fed within 90 days of manufacture. Since most ponds are approximately one acre in size, one 50-pound bag of feed would last 16 days when feeding 3 pounds per acre.
- Feed will retain its freshness and flavor if stored in an air tight container in a dry cool place.
What pond management techniques are recommended for growing big bluegills in a pond?
Periodic water level drawdowns and a largemouth bass size limit are two fish management tools that will produce big bluegills. To be effective, drawdowns should reduce the pond’s surface acreage by at least half for a period of six months (September-March). Periodic water level drawdowns strand many small bluegill and crowd many others into a smaller area where they are more vulnerable to predation. Reducing the pond’s volume every second or third year keeps the fish population below its carrying capacity and the surviving fish have an abundance of natural food. Bluegills frequently grow 6-8 inches in two growing seasons in new ponds where there is little competition for food. Ponds constructed with a drain valve are a fish manager’s dream as the water level can easily be lowered. Flexible, six-inch field tile works well for lowering the water level by siphoning in ponds that do not have a drain. A 14-inch size limit on largemouth bass is another method of producing big bluegills. If an adequate number of bass 14 inches and smaller are maintained in a pond, they will keep the number of small bluegill under control. When bass eat most of the small bluegill that hatch each spring, the survivors will grow rapidly to desirable size on natural foods.
What is a fish attractor and how do I construct one?
Finding and catching the fish can be easier in the presence of fish attractors in a pond or lake. A fish attractor is a structure that provides cover to fish. Fish are attracted to this structure as a place that provides them with shade, spawning areas or places to rest or escape predators. The structure may also create homes for aquatic insects or other organisms that provide food for fish. Larger fish attend the station to feed on the smaller fish that are attracted to it. Fish attractors occur naturally and should be maintained along shorelines in lakes or ponds. Trees that have fallen into the lake and aquatic plants growing in shallow water provide this habitat. Attractors can be constructed and placed by humans in areas that do not have natural cover. A good rule of thumb for larger lakes is to have some type of structure providing cover for every 2 to 3 acres of water. Smaller fish ponds also benefit from structure that creates cover for growing fish.
Some general guidelines for construction of attractors are:
- Three or four trees lashed together as a brush pile can be anchored to the bottom. Grouping trees to provide one large brush pile is more effective than having individual trees spread over the entire lake.
- Concentrate cover in areas that are most attractive to fish, such as coves, off points and along the edges of old stream channels or drop-offs. Brushpiles in small ponds can be placed along the shoreline or off the dam. Place some brush piles within casting distance of anglers.
- Do not place cover in the deepest water because dissolved oxygen levels during summer may not be high enough to support fish in those areas anyway. For most lakes and ponds, place the cover in areas no deeper than 10 to 12 feet.
- Do not put structures in areas that will interfere with boating or place them at least 4 to 5 feet below the surface of the water.
- Stack tree limbs or stand trees on the bottom by placing weight only at the butt end of the tree. A higher profile creates more usable cover.
- Arrange larger piles in an X, T or C shape that will help concentrate fish. The top of the T and closed (left) side of the C should run parallel to shore. The tail ends of the C and T should extend out into deeper water.Fell live or dead trees around the shoreline using a hinge cut to hold the trees in position (the trunk of the tree remains attached to the stump). This provides good overhead cover for fish. Live trees along the shoreline provide many benefits by shading the water and preventing erosion. If felling live trees, select them carefully to avoid destroying the benefits of live trees. Place markers on the shoreline or tie buoys to the attractors to help you locate them.
- Natural cover decomposes and needs periodic replacement. Softwood trees last about 7 years. Some hardwoods can remain up to 30 years. Wear appropriate safety gear such as gloves, protective glasses, and hard-toed shoes when constructing attractors. Use the right tools for the job.
- Be sure to contact the proper authority before adding cover to your favorite lake or pond. Permanent structures, including fish attractors, placed in public freshwater lakes or other public waters require a permit from the DNR. From: Fishing in a Barrel. Pond Management Series FIS 421. Missouri Department of Conservation.
What can I do to avoid seasonal fish kills in my pond?
Fish kills in private ponds can be caused by water quality (pH, hardness, oxygen supply), chemical pollution, old age, physical disturbance, parasites or disease. The most common cause of fish kills is oxygen depletion. Oxygen depletion can occur in summer or winter with slightly different factors involved in each season. These kills can often be limited to certain species that are particularly susceptible to stress due to spawning condition or other factors.
Pond design is important for preventing winter kill. In Indiana, ponds should be at least eight feet deep over at least 25 percent of the pond area. Greater depths are even better. If an eight foot depth is not possible, provide at least six feet over at least half the pond area. Deepening the pond and removing dead or decaying organic matter that has built up over time will help preserve the oxygen. Removing snow cover from at least 50 percent of the pond surface may help. Unless the ice is thick enough to hold a person or small tractor, snow removal can be very dangerous. Chopping holes in the ice won’t help.
Plant management is usually the most important factor in controlling summer kills. There are several other possibilities related to plant management in the lake. Small die-offs of fish are common on hot summer days following several days of cloud cover due to a lack of oxygen production by plants. If the lake is only a year old, it is likely that rooted plants (pondweeds) have not become well established and the fish are relying on algae to produce oxygen. Sudden declines in algae can also cause low oxygen and fish kills. When plants are dense, chemically treat only a portion of the plants at a time to avoid oxygen reduction caused by decay of the dead plants. A bottom-water overflow outlet can be designed into a new pond to reduce the chances of deoxygenated water building up in the bottom of the pond by releasing water from lower levels in the pond. Emergency treatments can include: 1) flushing the pond with fresh aerated water from a well or adjacent pond; 2) spraying water from a 2 to 3 foot depth into the air with a pump; 3) in small ponds, add oxygen by stirring the surface water vigorously with an anchored outboard motor; and 4) a chemical treatment to temporarily relieve oxygen depletion can be used only with the advice of a fisheries biologist.
Once the emergency has passed, find and eliminate the cause of oxygen shortage. Loss of fish due to overabundant plant growth is often caused by runoff of fertilizers from properties in the watershed. Fertilizers can cause an increase in algae, followed by a die off and fish kill. Some pesticides or herbicides can kill fish directly, but a fish kill is more likely a result of indirect action by losing the oxygen-producing capability of plants in the water. If there is a problem with runoff, you can contact your local Soil and Water Conservation District (SWCD) to inquire about methods of putting in vegetation around your pond or diverting flow so that the runoff does not reach the pond with such high levels of contaminants. Phone numbers for SWCDs are on the web.
After very severe kills, the only means of remedying the resulting imbalance in fish species may be to renovate the pond by killing the remaining fish with a chemical or by draining and restocking the pond. Be sure to identify and solve the problem, if possible, before restocking the fish. Based on: Fish Kills in IndianaTheir Causes and Prevention, FNR 69. Herbert C. Krauch, Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service.
Who can purchase and use rotenone to remove fish from private ponds?
Rotenone, labeled as a fish toxicant and sold under several brand names, is a restricted use pesticide. Dealers must be specifically registered to sell this product. Dealer requirements include record-keeping and sale only to certified users. The product can only be sold to and used by certified applicators with approval under a license for Category 5: Aquatic Pest Control in private or public waters. Farmers or other landowners who are certified for use of other restricted products would not automatically have this approval. Questions on dealer registration and applicator certification can be directed to the Indiana State Chemist and Seed Commissioner’s Office, Purdue University, 765-494-6271.
If I suspect a disease in my fish, where should I take them to be checked?
The Purdue University Animal Disease Diagnostic Lab can check fish for diseases. Individuals willing to pay the fee for this service should go through their local veterinarian. The most useful samples are taken sick but alive fish ("wobbly fish”) to your veterinarian. If only dead fish are available, take them cold packaged (chilled but not frozen). The veterinarian will assist you in preparing and shipping the fish to the lab for analysis.
What can I do if I think my pond was contaminated by pesticides or other chemicals?
If owners of private ponds experience fish kills which they suspect are caused by pesticides or other chemical contaminants that may have entered their pond, their only recourse is to have a private laboratory analyze the water. They may then attempt to recover losses through the courts. The Indiana State Department of Health provides a list of Certified Chemistry and Microbiology Laboratories with the list of chemicals that each lab is capable of analyzing by calling 317-233-8071 (chemistry testing) or 317-233-8072 (microbiology testing). If pesticides were applied incorrectly (overspray, spraying in high wind, etc.) and are suspected of causing the fish kill, the pond owner should contact the pesticide section of the Indiana State Chemist’s Office at 765-494-1585. The office can investigate the complaint for violation of pesticide use laws.
Who can I contact for information on removing nuisance animals from my pond?
The Indiana Nuisance Wildlife Hotline can provide information on how to live with wildlife, as well as advice on how to manage conflicts with wildlife. Wildlife professionals are on hand from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Friday. 1-800-893-4116. In Lafayette call 496-3968.
How can I control leeches and “swimmer’s itch” in my pond?
Leeches are flat brown or black wormlike animals that are tapered at one end and round at the other. Most of the leeches encountered by swimmers are from 1/2 to 3 inches long. Some species of leeches obtain food by sucking blood through tiny punctures in the skin and may become nuisances for swimmers. Not all leeches feed on blood. Some eat only plants or other organic materials. Treatment with copper sulfate can eliminate leeches from a pond. For ponds with moderately hard water, a concentration of 5 ppm copper sulfate is usually enough to kill the leeches. Because leeches swim, the entire waterbody must be treated be effective. Because copper sulfate also kills algae, treatment of ponds containing a large amount of algae can cause a fish kill due to oxygen depletion after decomposition of the plants. Swimmers’ itch results from accidental infestation of humans with a parasite that normally cycles between waterfowl and certain kinds of snails. Infected waterfowl are difficult to control in comparison to snails. Redear sunfish feed on snails and stocking them may assist with control of infestations.
Chemical control of swimmers’ itch is possible in private waters, but will have serious consequences on the ecology of the pond. Snails and other organisms providing food for fish are destroyed as a result of the treatment toxicity. The most effective time to use chemical control in private ponds would be late June to early July. The services of a professional pond management company would be recommended to establish the correct dosage and timing of treatment.
How should I manage the plants in my pond or lake?
Aquatic plants can be controlled by using mechanical harvesters, selective chemicals, or biological controls (e.g., grass carp, milfoil weevils). Each method has advantages and disadvantages. Selection of the most appropriate method depends upon the circumstances of an individual lake and can be complicated. Care should be taken to provide an adequate level of control for recreation without harming beneficial plants that are growing in the water. These plants provide habitat and oxygen for fish. Death and decay resulting from control of plants in the water can result in a decline in oxygen that may indirectly cause a fish kill. The most effective method of control depends upon the type of plants that are causing a problem and the other uses of the water. Different herbicides affect different species and provide control through various mechanisms that affect the length of control time and potential for recovery of beneficial plants. Correct identification of the problem plant by species and category (rooted plant or algae) is essential in selecting the best control methods. Treatment of areas in public lakes and water supplies usually requires a permit from the DNR and sometime from the IDEM.
Copper is the most common means and probably the safest option for controlling algae in water. Chemicals using copper are labeled for use in livestock tanks, public drinking water supplies, and fish raceways. When used according to the label, there are no restrictions on use of the water for drinking, eating fish, swimming or other water-related activities. However, copper can build up in the sediment after a number of years of use. This can result in increasing toxicity to small aquatic animals that provide food for young fish and for some sensitive species of fish. As with any pesticide, use the smallest amount that causes the desired effect and always follow directions on the label. We recommend hiring a qualified aquatic plant control specialist to make decisions about herbicide applications in larger ponds and lakes.
What can I use to control weeds growing on the land around the edge of my pond?
An effective chemical for the situation you describe is glyphosate (sold under the trade name Rodeo). This is one of the few herbicides that kills plants on land or emergent plants growing out of the water, but that will not harm fish if used according the recommendations on the label. Be aware that other chemicals may harm the fish in your pond if they run off into the water. Only chemicals labeled for aquatic use can be legally applied near or in water. Glyphosate can provide reasonably long-term control of spatterdock, cattail, and willow. Glyphosate is not directly toxic to fish. However, when applying the chemical, take care to avoid contact with the water through overspray, runoff or by rainfall within six hours of application. The chemical can kill beneficial plants that are growing in the water, such as water lilies. These plants provide habitat and oxygen for fish. Death and decay of plants in the water can result in a decline in oxygen that may indirectly cause a fish kill. Use of any chemical in or near a drinking water supply must be done with caution and may require a permit. Control is slow and may not be visible for several weeks after application. The chemical and instructions for use are available from many coops, farm supplies, and landscaping stores. For more information on plant management in ponds and lakes, please refer to the new brochure available on the web as “Managing Aquatic Plants in Indiana Lakes.” It can be downloaded from the web at: You can retrieve a list of contractors that conduct aquatic plant control on private and public waters from the web page at: Treatment of aquatic plants with herbicides may require a permit in public waters.
Can insects be stocked in lakes to control Eurasian watermilfoil?
Early results in other states indicate that aquatic weevils can successfully control milfoil in lakes. The Lake and River Enhancement program in the IDNR Division of Soil Conservation is financially supporting a demonstration project to determine whether these insects can control milfoil in Indiana lakes. Test lakes include Round Lake and Little Turkey Lake in northeastern Indiana and Griffy Reservoir near Bloomington. Weevils were stocked in these lakes during the summer of 2000. Monitoring the success of the study will continue through the summer of 2002. The DNR will be publicizing results of this study as they are generated. The only contractor currently raising and stocking the weevils in Midwestern lakes is EnviroScience, Inc. of Stow, Ohio. If you are interested in having weevils stocked in your lake, you could call the company for information directly at 1-800-940-4025.
Exotic watermilfoil is a nuisance in many Indiana lakes. Residents should avoid boating through milfoil, as breakage of the plant can cause it to spread and root in new places. Overzealous control of plants in lakes can leave areas bare and ripe for invasion by unwanted plants, such as milfoil. Careful use of aquatic herbicides by licensed applicators can also be used to reduce milfoil and allow native plants to recover. You can retrieve a list of contractors for aquatic plant control from the web page at: Treatment of aquatic plants with herbicides may require a permit. For more information on plant management in lakes, please refer to the new brochure available on the web as “Managing Aquatic Plants in Indiana Lakes.” It can be downloaded from the web at:
Who can help me with pond or wetland construction questions?
Land owners wishing to construct a pond should first contact the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS), formerly known as the Soil Conservation Service (SCS). The phone number and address for your county’s NRCS office is in the yellow pages under U.S. Government Offices, Department of Agriculture, and on the web at: Personnel in each office will be able to direct you regarding any permits that may be required prior to construction, whether your soils are capable of holding water, determining the proper size for your pond, and may even assist in preliminary design of the pond and spillway. For certain types of ponds or wetlands, cost-share money may be available. The NRCS offices also have written specifications to help in designing your pond. The IDNR District Fisheries Biologist can also give you a few tips on designing a pond for future fish management. They can provide information on stocking a pond, managing the plants, and assist you with a list of private fish suppliers where you can purchase fish (state hatcheries do not supply fish for private ponds).
My pond leaks. What can I do to seal it?
If your pond drops more than 4-5 vertical feet during a normal year, then you may suspect water loss due to something other than evaporation. Seepage through the dam is the most common culprit. Trees on the dam, muskrats holes, and insufficient compaction during construction can cause a dam to leak.
Pond bottoms without enough clay will also lose water. Many pond owners have had good luck in sealing leaking pond with bentonite clay, even with water still in the pond. Bentonite can be purchased in 50-100 lb. sacks. One sack will cover about an 8’ X 8’ bottom area and will not adversely effect fish in the pond. If the leaks are serious, you may have to drain the pond and compact large amounts of native clay in order to seal it sufficiently.
Information on soil type, as well as the area and condition of the watershed draining into your pond, is very important in selecting and maintaining good pond quality. Maps and assistance in describing these characteristics are available from the Soil and Water Conservation District in your county.
Is dam removal a viable alternative to the high costs of maintenance and repair?
There are a number of studies from other states that identify ecological benefits to stream restoration through dam removal under particular conditions. Wisconsin has been very active on this issue. Impoundments behind dams convert flowing stream conditions to pond habitat, promoting an undesirable increase in carp and reducing the number of smallmouth bass and other river species. Each dam exists in a different social and physical environment and must be analyzed individually in regard to removal. In addition to the potential ecological benefits, there are also costs in removing dams, both financial and in planning for the potential impacts of sediment releases. Communities and landowners are often very attached to the historical significance of dams and impoundments, especially at old mill pond sites. Most of these projects in the Midwest are on small streams, not larger reservoirs. A number of small dams in Indiana are in need of repair and may be removed by the owner out of economic necessity. Discussions about dam removal for improvement of the stream system are in early stages in Indiana. If you are interested further information, please feel free to call the IDNR Division of Water, Dam Safety Section, at 317-232-4160.
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